Working in a bakery is very fast-paced, says Peter Lyner, 60, who runs a family bakery in Winterthur. “Just leaving our loaves in the oven a little longer is not an option.” Each tray must be done at the right moment, so that you work to capacity as much as possible, he says. But bakers are used to time pressure. “This is when we come into our own.”
Lyner’s eponymous bakery and confectionery is a fourth-generation business. The head baker never considered doing anything else for a living. “Bread is a staple food, and I love producing it.” Lyner also enjoys working with people and likes running a business. “You need to think on your feet – and think ahead.”
Since the pandemic and in the wake of high energy costs, not to mention wheat shortages, bakers have had to contend with a race to the bottom by discount supermarket chains. At the moment, you can buy a standard loaf – or “Pfünderli” – for 99 cents at Aldi. “You barely cover your overheads at that price,” he laments, adding that it is simply a way for supermarkets to attract footfall.
Lyner, meanwhile, is continually adapting the business to changes in the market. He now has three additional outlets and has also been running a café since 2020. Lyner currently has 53 employees and 13 trainees. But he and his staff still bake everything by hand.
Unlike the big retail chains that churn out cut-price loaves en masse, Lyner is thinking more long-term. He focuses on quality – and quality does not come free. His speciality “Eschenbergbrot” sells for 4.90, while a Lyner croissant costs 1.60. “You need to know your prices and stick to them.” Only bakeries with clear strategies can survive, he argues.
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